Heel Flap & Gusset (Cuff-Down Version)

DIRECTION NOTES

These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. They can be worked using DPN’s or mini-circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. You’ll find general foot information here should you need it.

The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg of your sock approximately 2.5 [2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5]” / 6.5 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 11, 11.5] cm less than your desired length. These measurements are based on a gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will result in a size difference for your finished socks. 

If you’re working with the same stitch counts, but with a different gauge, we can do a little math to help calculate how much length you need to reserve for your heel from your desired length. The directions for this heel flap are worked across 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] rows, which will give us our heel depth.

Step 1: Determine your round/row ratio. You’ll divide the swatch by the number of rows you worked.

Imperial Example; 4″ swatch divided by 40 rounds = 0.1
Metric Example; 10 cm swatch divided by 40 rounds = 0.25

Step 2: Multiply the heel rows for your size by your ratio.

Imperial Example; If I was working a 64-stitch sock, I’d have 32 rows in my heel flap. 32 multiplied by 0.1 = 3.2″ heel depth. We can round this to the nearest 0.25″. I’d need to work my sock until it’s 3.25″ less than my desired leg length.
Metric Example; If I was working a 64-stitch sock, I’d have 32 rows in my heel flap. 32 multiplied by 0.25 = 8 cm heel depth. I’d need to work my sock until it’s 8 cm less than my desired leg length.

GLOSSARY

• Dec: Decreased.
• K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
• K: Knit.
• P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
• P: Purl.
• RS: Right side.
• S1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
• S1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
• St(s): Stitch(es).
• Ssk: Slip 2 stitches. one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
• WS: Wrong side.

DIRECTIONS

HEEL FLAP

Turn your work to face the WS. The heel is worked flat, and you’ll be working the next 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches for your heel flap as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.

Repeat Rows 1-2 another 11 [12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21] times.

HEEL TURN

Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p15 [16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28]. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, 7 [7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked on each side. Do not turn your work.

Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round.

GUSSET

While working in the round, proceed to work the gusset as follows:

 Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches. Continue working the foot as desired.