Heel Flap & Gusset (Cuff-Down Version)

Measurements

The measurements are based on a gauge of 8 stitches by 10 rounds in stockinette = 1″ / 2.5 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will result in a size difference for your finished socks.

Notes

These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. They can be worked using DPN’s or 9″ circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end.

The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg approximately 2.5 [3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5]” / 6.5 [8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11.5, 11.5] cm less than your desired length.

Additional Information

You’ll find general foot information here.


Glossary

  • Dec: Decreased.
  • K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
  • K: Knit.
  • P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
  • P: Purl.
  • RS: Right side.
  • S1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
  • S1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
  • St(s): Stitch(es).
  • Ssk: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
  • WS: Wrong side.

Heel Flap

Work across the instep stitches as established. The heel is worked flat, and you’ll be working the next 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches for your heel flap as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.

Repeat rows 1-2 another 11 [12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21] times.

Heel Turn

Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k15 [16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p7 [7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 4: Sl1, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked on each side.

Work across the heel turn in stockinette. Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round.

Gusset

While working in the round, proceed to work the gusset as follows:

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Repeat rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches.

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