Afterthought Heel

Welcome to the world of afterthought heels, a clever and versatile sock-knitting technique that allows you to add heels to your socks at a later stage, just like an afterthought! This innovative method not only simplifies the sock-knitting process but also opens up a realm of creative possibilities for design. Whether you’re an experienced sock knitter looking to try something new or a beginner seeking a unique approach, the afterthought heel will add a touch of magic to your sock-making journey. By allowing you to focus on the foot and leg first, and then adding the heel later, it provides a fresh twist on traditional sock construction.

One of my favourite things about knitting an afterthought heel is how amazing they look in self-striping yarn! The stripes flow perfectly through the heel without being disrupted, creating a beautiful, uninterrupted pattern. This results in a striking bullseye effect right at the heel, which is especially eye-catching when using multi-coloured or variegated yarns. The afterthought heel is truly the ideal choice if you want to showcase your yarn’s colorwork in a seamless and visually appealing way.

Additionally, afterthought heels are fantastic for those who find traditional heel flap and gusset constructions too roomy for their low insteps or narrow feet. Since the heel is added later, you can easily customise the depth and fit, making it a snugger option for a more tailored fit. The simplicity of the construction also means you can experiment with different heel types or stitch patterns, giving you even more flexibility in your sock designs.

This method is a great way to explore new sock techniques, allowing you to create comfortable, well-fitted socks with minimal fuss. Whether you’re new to the craft or looking to add a new technique to your sock-knitting repertoire, the afterthought heel offers endless possibilities for creativity and customisation. So grab your needles and yarn, and get ready to discover a whole new world of sock-knitting possibilities with this ingenious technique!

Pattern Notes for an Afterthought Heel

These directions for this Afterthought Heel will create a standard wedge heel, are for magic loop, and based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. The directions can be worked using double-pointed needles, being mindful of where each half of your stitches begin and end. 

The directions assume you’ve already completed the entire sock, exclusive of a heel. These measurements are based on a gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks. 

Abbreviations used in the Afterthought Heel

• Dec: Decrease.
• Inc: Increase.
• K: Knit.
• K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
• Rep: Repeat.
• St(s): Stitch(es).
• Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

Directions for an Afterthought Heel

With your sock laying flat with the sole facing up, measuring from the toe along the sole of the foot, measure 1 [1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 3]” / 2.5 [3, 4, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5] cm less than your desired foot length and place a locking stitch marker to denote the round you’ll be working from. With your sock toe pointing down, working right to left, pick up the right leg of all the stitches directly below the stitches of your selected round (that you marked with your marker).

Rotate work, so your toe is now pointing up, moving right to left, pick up the right leg of all the stitches directly below the selected round. You’ll now have 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on each needle, half picked up above the selected round and half below the selected row, leaving the row with the marker unpicked up.

Using your tapestry needle and a pair of scissors, cut the centre of the marked round. Gently pull out the marked round yarn, unravelling it until you reach the edges of your picked-up stitches (do not pull yarn out further than your needle stitches, or you’ll unravel your socks). Join your yarn and begin working in the round:

Round 1: *Pick up 1 st to close the gap, knit across the needle, then pick up 1 more st to close the gap; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc; 2 sts inc on each needle)
Round 2: Knit across round.
Round 3: *K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts dec; 2 sts dec on each needle)

Continue working Rounds 2-3 until you have 40 stitches (20 stitches on each needle), then work Round 3 three more times; you’ll have 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle). Cut yarn, leaving an 8” / 21 cm tail, and graft your heel closed.

Congratulations! You’ve worked the Afterthought Heel! If you enjoy this heel shape, you may also enjoy a Short Row Heel or Peasant Heel.

The yarn we used in our sample heel is from Area 51 Fibres.

Happy knitting! ♥