Back to Basics: Socks (DK) – Cuff-down Heel Flap & Gusset

There’s something undeniably comforting about knitting socks. Whether it’s the rhythmic click of the needles or the satisfaction of creating something both beautiful and practical, socks hold a special place in the hearts of many knitters. If you’ve been looking for a straightforward yet rewarding sock pattern, Back to Basics: Socks (DK) — Cuff-down Heel Flap & Gusset is the perfect choice!

This pattern is designed to be an approachable introduction to sock knitting while also serving as a quick and enjoyable project for experienced knitters. Featuring the classic heel flap and gusset construction, it provides a snug, well-fitting sock that hugs the foot comfortably. And because it’s knit in DK weight yarn, it works up faster than traditional fingering-weight socks—meaning more cosy socks in less time!

Whether you’re dipping your toes (pun intended!) into sock knitting for the first time or looking for a reliable go-to pattern, Back to Basics: Socks (DK) will become a staple in your knitting repertoire. I’ll walk you through the key features of this pattern and why it’s an excellent choice for knitters of all skill levels. Ready to cast on? Let’s dive in!

Pattern Notes for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Worked in the round, this versatile sock pattern offers a seamless knitting experience by providing cuff-down written directions.

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your hand-knit socks. This pattern truly embraces size-inclusivity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

We’ve written this sock pattern for the magic loop knitting method in mind. However, you can also work on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead if you prefer (just use extra markers to denote the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

Create a project page for your project here on Ravelry!

I can’t wait to see your Back to Basics: Socks (DK) come to life! Share your WIPs and FOs on social media using #rhyFlowerBlog and #BackToBasics—let’s celebrate your creativity together!

Tips & Tricks

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

Pattern Support for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/

Skill Level

Beginner

Size Information

1 [2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] — larger sizes are in bold throughout the pattern to help differentiate the multiple sizes.

Finished Measurements

(Measured around the ball of the foot) 

6 [6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.75, 11.25]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27, 28.5] cm circumference — select a size from the finished measurements that is  1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm smaller than your foot circumference. These socks are worn with negative ease. We made the sample pair from the toe-up directions in size 5.

Notions

Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers (1)

Suggested Needles

US3 (3.25 mm) 40” / 100 cm circular needles, or the size required to get gauge

Yarn Requirements

MC: 100-245 yd / 91-224 m of DK weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)

CC: 35 [40, 46, 52, 58, 65, 72, 79, 87, 94] yd / 32 [37, 42, 48, 53, 59, 66, 72, 80, 86] m of DK weight yarn

Suggested Yarn

Turtlepurl Yarns – DK Striped Turtle Toes
75% Superwash Merino 25% Nylon
245 yds (224 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Diamond Dungarees
https://turtlepurl.com/

Gauge

27 stitches by 36 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.

Abbreviations used in Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

*: Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

”: Inch(es).

-: You’ll see a dash in place for a size if the directions do not apply to that size.

BOR: Beginning of round.

CC: Contrast colour.

Cm: Centimetre(s).

Dec: Decrease.

G: Gram(s).

Inc: Increase.

K: Knit.

K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

M: Metre(s).

MC: Main colour.

Mm: Millimetres(s).

Oz: Ounce(s).

P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

P: Purl.

Rep: Repeat.

RS: Right side.

Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

St(s): Stitch(es).

W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.

WS: Wrong side.

Yd: Yard(s).

Directions for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Using an Old Norwegian Cast-on and your CC, cast on 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches and divide evenly between the two needles. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to denote the BOR. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the back of the leg.

Round 1: *K2, p2; rep from * across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your cuff measures 1.5” / 4 cm or your desired cuff length. Cut CC and join MC.

Leg

Round 1: Knit across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your leg measures 2 [2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4]” / 5 [5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10] cm less than your desired leg length, measured from the cast-on edge.

Heel Flap

Turn your work to face the WS. Drop MC and join CC. You’ll work with your CC throughout the heel flap directions. Work the heel flap flat, using the next 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38]  stitches. 

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to the last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.

Continue working Rows 1-2 another 9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18] times.

HEEL TURN

Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p12 [14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24]. Turn your work. 7 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13] sts unworked.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k5 [7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11]. Turn your work. 7 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13] sts unworked.

Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog, p1. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before the gap, ssk, k1. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 3-4 another 6 [7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12] times. You’ll have worked all the stitches on each side and have 6 [6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] stitches remaining on the needle. Do not turn your work.

Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Cut CC and continue working with MC. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your 9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round. 48 [52, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90] sts

Gusset

Resume working in the round again and work the gusset:

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec on second needle)

Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches.

Foot

Continue working in the round as established, using your foot directions, until your foot measures  1 [1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3]” / 2.5 [3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5] cm less than your desired length, measured from the deepest part of the heel.

Round 1: Knit across round.

Toe

Cut MC and join CC.

Round 1: *K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more.  (4 sts dec; 2 sts dec on each needle)

Round 2: Knit across round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle), then work Round 1 three more times; you’ll have ‌16 stitches (8 stitches on each needle). Cut yarn, leaving an 8” / 21 cm tail, and graft your toe closed.

Finishing your Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

After weaving in all your ends, soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. To dry your socks, either use sock blockers or lay them flat. Give your socks enough time to air dry completely. 

Now, dance like nobody’s watching while wearing your new hand-knit socks! ♥