Back to Basics: Socks (DK) – Toe-up Heel Flap & Gusset

There’s something undeniably comforting about knitting socks. Whether it’s the rhythmic click of the needles or the satisfaction of creating something both beautiful and practical, socks hold a special place in the hearts of many knitters. If you’ve been looking for a straightforward yet rewarding sock pattern, Back to Basics: Socks (DK) — Toe-up Heel Flap & Gusset is the perfect choice!

This pattern is designed to be an approachable introduction to sock knitting while also serving as a quick and enjoyable project for experienced knitters. Featuring the classic heel flap and gusset construction, it provides a snug, well-fitting sock that hugs the foot comfortably. And because it’s knit in DK weight yarn, it works up faster than traditional fingering-weight socks—meaning more cosy socks in less time!

Whether you’re dipping your toes (pun intended!) into sock knitting for the first time or looking for a reliable go-to pattern, Back to Basics: Socks (DK) will become a staple in your knitting repertoire. I’ll walk you through the key features of this pattern and why it’s an excellent choice for knitters of all skill levels. Ready to cast on? Let’s dive in!

Pattern Notes for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Worked in the round, this versatile sock pattern offers a seamless knitting experience by providing toe-up written directions.

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your hand-knit socks. This pattern truly embraces size-inclusivity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

We’ve written this sock pattern for the magic loop knitting method in mind. However, you can also work on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead if you prefer (just use extra markers to denote the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

Create a project page for your project here on Ravelry!

I can’t wait to see your Back to Basics: Socks (DK) come to life! Share your WIPs and FOs on social media using #rhyFlowerBlog and #BackToBasics—let’s celebrate your creativity together!

Tips & Tricks

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

Pattern Support for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/

Skill Level

Beginner

Size Information

1 [2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] — larger sizes are in bold throughout the pattern to help differentiate the multiple sizes.

Finished Measurements

(Measured around the ball of the foot) 

6 [6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.75, 11.25]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27, 28.5] cm circumference — select a size from the finished measurements that is  1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm smaller than your foot circumference. These socks are worn with negative ease. We made the sample pair from the toe-up directions in size 5.

Notions

Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers (1)

Suggested Needles

US3 (3.25 mm) 40” / 100 cm circular needles, or the size required to obtain gauge

Yarn Requirements

MC: 100-245 yd / 91-224 m of DK weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)

CC: 35 [40, 46, 52, 58, 65, 72, 79, 87, 94] yd / 32 [37, 42, 48, 53, 59, 66, 72, 80, 86] m of DK weight yarn

Suggested Yarn

Turtlepurl Yarns – DK Striped Turtle Toes
75% Superwash Merino 25% Nylon
245 yd (224 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Diamond Dungarees
https://turtlepurl.com/

Gauge

27 stitches by 36 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.

Abbreviations used in Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

*: Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

”: Inch(es).

-: You’ll see a dash in place for a size if the directions do not apply to that size.

BOR: Beginning of round.

CC: Contrast colour.

Cm: Centimetre(s).

Dec: Decrease.

G: Gram(s).

Inc: Increase.

K: Knit.

K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

M: Metre(s).

M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)

M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)

MC: Main colour.

Mm: Millimetres(s).

Oz: Ounce(s).

P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

P: Purl.

Rep: Repeat.

RS: Right side.

Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

St(s): Stitch(es).

W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.

WS: Wrong side.

Yd: Yard(s).

Directions for Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on and your CC, cast on 16 stitches (8 stitches on each needle). Knit across 1 round, working through the back loop on your second needle. Place a stitch marker to denote the BOR.

Rounds 1-2: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (24 sts; 12 sts on each needle)

Round 3: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc; 2 sts  inc on each needle)

Round 4: Knit across round. 

Continue working Rounds 3-4 until you have 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the sole of your sock. Cut CC and join MC. 

Foot

Round 1: Knit across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your foot measures 3.75 [4, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.75, 7]” / 9.5 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 15.5, 16.5, 18] cm less than your desired foot length, measured from the cast-on edge.

Gusset

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle)

Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.

Heel Turn

Continue across the instep as established, then drop MC and join CC. You’ll continue working with your CC from here. You will work flat for your heel turn, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K29 [32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56], w&t next st. 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts unworked

Row 2 (WS): P18 [20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36], w&t next st. 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts unworked

Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Continue working Rows 3-4 another 5 [6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11] times. You’ll have 7 [8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] centre stitches and 6 [6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] wrapped stitches on each side.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across centre sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.

Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.

Heel Flap

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 1-2 until you have completed working all the heel flap stitches with your gusset stitches, which will bring you back to your original stitch count of 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] stitches on the second needle. Cut CC and continue with MC as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

Leg

Resume working in the round, as established, using your leg directions, until your leg measures your desired length before the cuff, measured from the back of the heel flap.

Round 1: Knit across round.

Cuff

Cut MC and join CC.

Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your cuff measures 1.5” / 4 cm or your desired cuff length. Bind off using a Stretchy Bind-off, remember you’ll want your bind-off to be stretchy enough to get your sock on and off comfortably.

Finishing your Back to Basics: Socks (DK)

After weaving in all your ends, soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. To dry your socks, either use sock blockers or lay them flat. Give your socks enough time to air dry completely. 

Now, dance like nobody’s watching while wearing your new hand-knit socks! ♥