Back to Basics: Socks – Toe-Up Heel Flap & Gusset

Have you ever wanted to try knitting socks but felt a little intimidated? You’re not alone! Socks can seem like a big challenge, especially for beginners, but with the right guidance, you’ll find that they’re actually a fun and rewarding project. If you’re ready to take the plunge into sock knitting, Back to Basics: Socks is the perfect pattern to help you get started with confidence.

This beginner-friendly design is specifically created to guide you step-by-step through the sock knitting process, starting with a simple toe-up approach. toe-up socks are a great way to begin because they allow you to easily adjust the length as you go, ensuring a perfect fit for your feet. Plus, with this pattern, you’ll be introduced to the classic heel flap and gusset technique, which is an essential skill every sock knitter should master.

Knitting socks isn’t just about making something functional; it’s about the satisfaction of creating something cosy and wearable. There’s a special joy in wearing socks you’ve knitted yourself, and the process of making them can be incredibly meditative. Plus, once you’ve mastered this pattern, you’ll be able to create socks in any colour or style you want—perfect for gifts, personal use, or simply expressing your creative side.

So, if you’re ready to dare to knit your first pair of socks, “Back to Basics: Socks” is here to help you take that exciting first step. With this pattern, you’ll not only learn how to knit a basic toe-up sock but also gain the confidence to tackle more advanced designs in the future. Let’s make socks fun, accessible, and something you can proudly wear every day!

Are you ready to start your sock-knitting adventure? Grab your needles, choose your yarn, and let’s get knitting!

Pattern Notes for Back to Basics: Socks

Worked in the round from the toe-up, this versatile sock pattern offers a seamless knitting experience. While the pattern comes with instructions for a heel flap and gusset, it’s adaptable to your personal preferences and unique feet. 

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your handcrafted socks. This pattern truly embraces size diversity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

I designed the sock pattern for the magic loop knitting method in mind. However, you can also work on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead if you prefer (just use extra markers to denote the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

Create a project page for your project here on Ravelry!

I can’t wait to see your Back to Basics: Socks come to life! Share your WIPs and FOs on social media using #rhyFlowerBlog and #BackToBasics—let’s celebrate your creativity together!

Tips & Tricks
For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

Pattern Support for Back to Basics: Socks
Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/

Pattern Details

Skill Level
Beginner

Size Information
1 [2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] — larger sizes are in bold throughout the pattern to help differentiate the multiple sizes.

Finished Measurements
(Measured around the ball of the foot)
6 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28] cm circumference — choose a size that will give you 1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm of negative ease. The finished measurements provided are actual measurements and do not factor in your negative ease.

Notions
Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers (1)

Suggested Needles
US1 (2.25 mm) 40” / 100 cm circular needles, or the size required to get gauge

Yarn Requirements
200-500 yd / 183-458 m of fingering weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)

Suggested Yarn
Turtlepurl Yarns – Striped Turtle Toes
75% SW Merino 25% Nylon
450 yd (411 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Bruised
https://turtlepurl.com

Gauge
32 stitches by 40 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.

Abbreviations for Back to Basics: Socks

• *: Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.
• “: Inch(es).
• BOR: Beginning of round.
• Cm: Centimetre(s).
• Dec: Decrease.
• G: Gram(s).
• Inc: Increase.
• K: Knit.
• M: Metre(s).
• M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)
• M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)
• Mm: Millimetre(s).
• Oz: Ounce(s).
• P: Purl.
• P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
• Rep: Repeat.
• RS: Right side.
• Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
• Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
• Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)
• St (Sts): Stitch(es).
• W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.
• WS: Wrong side.
• Yd: Yard(s).

Directions for Back to Basics: Socks

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on, cast on 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle). Knit across 1 round, working through the back loop on your second needle. Place a stitch marker to denote the BOR.

Rounds 1-2: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (36 sts; 18 sts on each needle)
Round 3: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc; 2 sts inc on each needle)
Round 4: Knit across round. 

Continue working Rounds 3-4 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the sole of your sock. 

Foot

Round 1: Knit across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your foot measures 4 [4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.5, 5.75, 6, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5]” / 10 [11.5, 12, 12.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 16.5, 17, 18, 19] cm less than your desired foot length, measured from the cast-on edge.

Gusset

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.

Heel Turn

Continue across the instep as established. You will work flat for your heel turn, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65], w&t next st. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked
Row 2 (WS): P22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42], w&t next st. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked
Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.
Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Continue working Rows 3-4 another 6 [7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] times. You’ll have 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] centre stitches and 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] wrapped stitches on each side.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across centre sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.

Heel Flap

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 1-2 until you have completed working all the heel flap stitches with your gusset stitches, which will bring you back to your original stitch count of 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on the second needle. Continue as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

Leg

Resume working in the round, as established, using your leg directions, until your leg measures your desired length before the cuff, measured from the back of the heel flap.

Round 1: Knit across round.

Cuff

Round 1: *K2, p2; rep from * across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your cuff measures 1.5” / 4 cm or your desired cuff length. Bind off using a Stretchy Bind-off, remember you’ll want your bind-off to be stretchy enough to get your sock on and off comfortably.

Finishing your Back to Basics: Socks

After weaving in all your ends, soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. To dry your socks, either use sock blockers or lay them flat. Give your socks enough time to air dry completely. 

Now, dance like nobody’s watching while wearing your new hand-knit socks! ♥