Heel Flap and Gusset – Cuff-Down

When it comes to knitting socks, one of the most popular methods for creating a well-fitted and sturdy heel is the heel flap and gusset technique. This classic construction method has been used by knitters for generations and is known for its ability to provide both structure and flexibility.

The heel flap is knitted on the leg of the sock, usually in a pattern like stockinette or ribbing, before the heel turn is worked. The gusset is a triangular section that’s created by picking up stitches along the sides of the heel flap, allowing the sock to comfortably shape around the foot and ankle.

A key advantage of the heel flap and gusset construction is that it offers a secure fit. The flap itself strengthens the heel area, making it more durable, while the gusset adds shaping to accommodate the foot’s natural arch. Many knitters appreciate the versatility of this method, as it can be adapted for different yarns, patterns, and foot shapes.

If you’re new to this technique, don’t worry – while it may seem intricate at first, once you master it, the heel flap and gusset will become second nature. Plus, it’s a great way to practice your skills in shaping, turning heels, and picking up stitches. Whether you’re knitting a simple pair of socks or something more intricate, the heel flap and gusset method is a timeless choice that delivers both comfort and style.

These directions are specific to a cuff-down sock. If you’re currently working a toe-up sock and want to work a heel flap and gusset, you’ll want these directions instead. 

Pattern Notes

These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. We can work them using DPNs or mini-circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg of your sock approximately 2.5 [2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5]” / 6.5 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 11, 11.5] cm less than your desired length.

These measurements are based on a rhyFlower Knits sock pattern gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks. 

Abbreviations used in a Heel Flap and Gusset

Dec: Decreased.

K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

K: Knit.

P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

P: Purl.

RS: Right side.

Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

St(s): Stitch(es).

Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

WS: Wrong side.

Directions for a Heel Flap and Gusset

Ribbed Heel Flap (shown in the sample photos)

Turn your work to face the WS. Work the heel flap flat, using the next 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches. 

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to the last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.

Continue working Rows 1-2 another 11 [12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21] times.

Eye of Partridge Heel Flap

Turn your work to face the WS. Work the heel flap flat, using the next 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches. 

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to the last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.
Row 4: Sl2, *k1, sl1; rep from * to the last 2 sts of your heel flap, k2. Turn your work.

Continue working Rows 1-4 another 5 [5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] times, then Rows 1-2 another 0 [1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0] time.

HEEL TURN

There are a variety of different methods to work a heel turn that creates a wide range of different shapes. Here I’ve included 2 different shapes, a square heel turn and a round heel turn. A square heel turn is great for feet that are wide in the heel, whereas a Round heel turn is a better fit for more curved heels. Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows:

Square Heel Turn (shown in the sample photos)

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p15 [16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28]. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have worked all stitches on each side. Do not turn your work.

Round Heel Turn

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p15 [16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28]. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before gap, ssk, k1. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have worked all stitches on each side. Do not turn your work.

All shapes:

Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round.

GUSSET

Resume working in the round again and work the gusset:

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec on second needle)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches.

Congratulations! You’ve worked the heel flap and gusset and are now ready to work the foot of your sock per your pattern directions!

The yarn we used in our sample heel is from Lofty Loops!

Happy knitting! ♥