Reader Question: How Do I Pick Up Stitches Along the Heel Flap Neatly?

If you’ve ever knitted a sock with a traditional heel flap and gusset, you’ll know the moment of truth comes when it’s time to pick up stitches along the sides of the heel. Do it well, and your sock flows seamlessly from heel to foot. Do it poorly, and you might see holes, uneven tension, or a wonky gusset. Don’t worry—it’s a common challenge, but with the right approach, it’s easy to conquer.

Let’s walk through how to pick up stitches along the heel flap neatly, so your socks not only fit like a dream but look polished too.

Understanding the Heel Flap

The heel flap is worked flat—back and forth—before you turn the heel and resume knitting in the round. Once you’ve shaped the heel, you’ll need to pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap to create the gusset, which joins the heel to the rest of the foot.

The side edges of the heel flap are where your picked-up stitches will go. Neatness here is key.

Step-by-Step: Picking Up Neat Stitches
1. Slip the First Stitch of Each Row
Before you even get to the pickup stage, ensure you’re slipping the first stitch of every heel flap row. This creates a tidy chain of edge stitches—perfect anchor points for picking up stitches cleanly.

2. Use a Smaller Needle (Optional Tip)
Some knitters find it helpful to switch to a slightly smaller needle when picking up stitches, especially if the edge is tight. This can give you more control and reduce gaps.

3. Pick Up Under Both Legs of the Edge Stitch
Instead of just grabbing one leg of the slipped stitch, insert your needle under both strands of the chain. This makes the join more secure and helps close up any potential holes.

4. Evenly Space Your Pickups
Count the number of edge stitches and plan how many you need to pick up (usually one stitch per slipped stitch). Be consistent—if you pick up too few, you’ll have gaps; too many, and your gusset might pucker.

5. Twist the Picked-Up Stitch
To tighten things up, you can knit into the back loop of the picked-up stitches on the first round. This twists the stitch slightly, pulling it snug.

6. Pick Up an Extra Stitch in the Corner
To prevent a hole at the gusset corner (where heel meets instep), pick up one extra stitch in the gap between the heel flap and instep. On the next round, knit this extra stitch together with the neighbouring one to decrease it away.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Holes at the Corners? Make sure you’re picking up that extra stitch in the corner and snugging your tension on the following round.

Loose Gusset? Check your yarn tension between pickups and try twisting your stitches to keep them tight.

Lumpy Join? It might be from picking up too many stitches—try again with fewer or space them more evenly.

Practice Makes Perfect

Your first few attempts might feel fiddly, but the more you do it, the better your hands will understand the motion. Soon enough, picking up stitches along the heel flap will feel like second nature—and your socks will thank you for it!

Final Thoughts

A neat pickup along the heel flap makes a huge difference to the overall finish of your sock. With these tips in mind, your gusset will blend beautifully into your sock’s design, giving it a professional, polished look.
Have a sock knitting question? Whether you’re puzzling over turning the heel or perfecting your toe decreases, we’re here to help! Drop us a comment to get in touch—we love hearing from fellow sock knitters and are always happy to share tips and tricks.