Whether you’re crafting cosy socks for loved ones or fine-tuning the perfect pair for yourself, the Strong Heel is a fantastic choice for creating durable, long-lasting socks. This technique provides excellent structure and support, ensuring that your handmade socks can withstand regular wear while maintaining a comfortable fit.
Unlike some traditional heel constructions, the Strong Heel offers a reinforced design that distributes pressure evenly, reducing strain in high-wear areas. It’s an excellent option for knitters who want their socks to last, whether they’re destined for everyday wear or extra-cosy lounging. Best of all, this method is both beginner-friendly and satisfying for experienced knitters looking to expand their sock-knitting skills.
A Strong Heel is a cuff-down version of a Fleegle heel, which is worked toe-up. If you’re currently working a toe-up sock, you’ll want these directions instead.
Pattern Notes
In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through the entire process of knitting a Strong Heel, breaking it down into easy-to-follow instructions. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to incorporate this technique into any sock pattern, creating a well-structured heel that not only looks great but also enhances the longevity of your knitwear.
Get ready to elevate your sock-knitting game with this sturdy, reliable, and comfortable heel technique—your feet (and your gift recipients) will thank you!
These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. We can work them using DPNs, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg of your sock approximately 2.25 [2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25]” / 5.5 [6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 11] cm less than your desired length.
These measurements are based on a rhyFlower Knits sock pattern gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.
Abbreviations used in the Strong Heel
BOR: Beginning of round.
Dec: Decrease.
Inc: Increase.
K: Knit.
K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)
M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)
P: Purl.
P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
RS: Right side.
Sl1 wyif: Slip specified stitch(es) purlwise with yarn in front.Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)
St(s): Stitch(es).
WS: Wrong side.
Directions for a Strong Heel
Gusset
Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.
Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 46 [50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.
Strong Heel
Continue across the instep as established. You will work flat for your heel flap, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K25 [27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45], ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p4, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 3: Sl1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 4: Sl1 wyif, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have 26 [28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46] sts remaining on the second needle. We will resume working in the round from here onward.
Next Round: Knit to last st before gap, ssk, slip BOR marker, work across instep as established, k2tog, knit to end of round. 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] sts remaining on the second needle, returning you to your original stitch count.
Congratulations! You’ve worked the Strong heel and are now ready to work the foot of your sock per your pattern directions!
The yarn we used in our sample heel is Symfonie Yarns’ Terra Base in the Peacock Green colourway.
Happy knitting! ♥
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I feel this is not correct: Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle).
When I knit until the last stitch and next M1R, there is jo stitch left to knit afterwards.
Hello Marion! If you’re knitting to the last stitch, then you’re knitting until 1 stitch remains, not knitting to the end of the round. Therefore there would be 1 stitch afterwards. 🙂
Where would you change color if you wanted the heel turn to be a different color?
I’m sorry, I meant the gusset to be a different color- where would I start the color change? I’m using a self patterning yarn and want to add a pop of color.
Thanks,
Mary
Hello Mary,
As the gusset is worked in the round, it wouldn’t be possible to add in a contrasting colour, unless you’re planning to get incredibly creative with some instarsia, in which case the directions here would no longer apply. 🙂
Really enjoying your instructions for the strong heel. I do have a question: what is the purpose of 2 additional stitches on 2nd needle after the heel turn?
Thanks, Sharon
Great question! If we omit the additional stitches, when working the heel turn, we would have to work more rows in order to resolve all our stitches which in turn creates a different shape! Having the extra stitches rounds the heel shape out, where omitting them makes a square heel turn. 🙂
Thanks, Sharon