Whether you’re crafting cosy socks for loved ones or fine-tuning the perfect pair for yourself, the Strong Heel is a fantastic choice for creating durable, long-lasting socks. This technique provides excellent structure and support, ensuring that your handmade socks can withstand regular wear while maintaining a comfortable fit.
Unlike some traditional heel constructions, the Strong Heel offers a reinforced design that distributes pressure evenly, reducing strain in high-wear areas. It’s an excellent option for knitters who want their socks to last, whether they’re destined for everyday wear or extra-cosy lounging. Best of all, this method is both beginner-friendly and satisfying for experienced knitters looking to expand their sock-knitting skills.
A Strong Heel is a cuff-down version of a Fleegle heel, which is worked toe-up. If you’re currently working a toe-up sock, you’ll want these directions instead.
Pattern Notes
In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through the entire process of knitting a Strong Heel, breaking it down into easy-to-follow instructions. By the end, you’ll have the confidence to incorporate this technique into any sock pattern, creating a well-structured heel that not only looks great but also enhances the longevity of your knitwear.
Get ready to elevate your sock-knitting game with this sturdy, reliable, and comfortable heel technique—your feet (and your gift recipients) will thank you!
These directions are for magic loop based on 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. We can work them using DPNs, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. The directions assume you’ve already worked the foot of your sock approximately 2 [2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4]” / 5.5 [6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 11] cm less than your desired foot length.
These measurements are based on a rhyFlower Knits sock pattern gauge of 27 stitches by 36 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.
Abbreviations used in the Strong Heel
- BOR: Beginning of round.
- Dec: Decrease.
- Inc: Increase.
- K: Knit.
- K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
- M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)
- M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)
- P: Purl.
- P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)
- RS: Right side.
- Sl1 wyif: Slip specified stitch(es) purlwise with yarn in front.
- Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)
- St(s): Stitch(es).
- WS: Wrong side.
Directions for a Strong Heel
Gusset
Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.
Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 38 [42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.
Strong Heel
Continue across the instep as established. You will work flat for your heel flap, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K21 [23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39], ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p4, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 3: Sl1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Row 4: Sl1 wyif, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn your work. (1 st dec on second needle)
Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have 22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40] sts remaining on the second needle. We will resume working in the round from here onward.
Next Round: Knit to last st before gap, ssk, slip BOR marker, work across instep as established, k2tog, knit to end of round. 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] sts remaining on the second needle, returning you to your original stitch count.
Congratulations! You’ve worked the Strong heel and are now ready to work the leg of your sock per your pattern directions!
Happy knitting! ♥
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Good morning….this is great info! How does the strong heel compare to the heel flap and gusset. I knit toe up.
Thanks for the info.
Dawn
Good morning! I’m so glad you found the info helpful!
The Strong heel is actually quite similar to the Fleegle heel, it’s just worked cuff-down rather than toe-up. It’s an excellent option for knitters who want to avoid picking up stitches or working a traditional heel flap.
Compared to a traditional heel flap and gusset, the Strong heel creates a slightly more anatomical fit without the need to pick up stitches or create a separate flap. It’s a bit less structured than the classic heel flap and gusset, but many knitters find it comfortable and more intuitive to work.