Sweet Tomato Heel (DK)

Welcome to the world of Sweet Tomato Heels—a clever and beautifully smooth sock-knitting technique that reshapes how we approach heel construction. Designed by the late Cat Bordhi, this innovative method seamlessly blends into the body of the sock, eliminating the need for traditional heel flaps or gussets. Whether you’re a seasoned sock knitter in search of a new challenge or a curious beginner ready to expand your skills, the Sweet Tomato Heel offers a refreshing and intuitive alternative to classic heels.

What sets the Sweet Tomato Heel apart is its sleek fit and flowing design. Rather than interrupting your stitch pattern, this technique allows for uninterrupted rounds, which is particularly stunning when working with self-striping or variegated yarns. The stripes glide gracefully over the heel, maintaining the continuity of colourwork and creating a harmonious look from cuff to toe. It’s an ideal choice for those wanting to showcase the beauty of their yarn without the visual break a gusset might bring.

Another brilliant aspect of the Sweet Tomato Heel is its customisability. Because it’s worked in short-row wedges, you can easily adapt the number of wedges or tweak the depth to suit your heel shape or instep height. This makes it especially appealing for those with narrow heels or low insteps, as the snug fit can be adjusted with minimal effort. Plus, since the technique is worked in the round and doesn’t require picking up stitches, it’s wonderfully straightforward once you get into the rhythm.

This heel construction is a superb way to experiment with fit, structure, and design—all while producing a polished, comfortable sock. Whether you’re refining your sock-knitting technique or looking for something refreshingly different, the Sweet Tomato Heel promises an enjoyable knitting experience and a professional finish.

So, pick up your needles, grab your favourite yarn, and prepare to dive into the smooth, seamless world of the Sweet Tomato Heel—a technique that’s as fun to knit as it is to wear!

Pattern Notes for a Sweet Tomato Heel

These directions for this Sweet Tomato Heel will create a 3 wedges, are for magic loop, and based on 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches. 2/3 of the stitches are worked in the heel and will be on the second needle, transferred during the setup. The directions for a Sweet Tomato Heel are the same regardless of whether you’re working toe-up or cuff-down.

The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg (for a cuff-down sock) or foot (for a toe-up sock) approximately 1.25 [1.5, 1.5, 1.75, 1.75, 2.25, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5]” / 3 [4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5.5, 5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5] cm less than your desired length. These measurements are based on a gauge of 27 stitches by 36 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks. 

Abbreviations used in the Sweet Tomato Heel

• K: Knit.
• P: Purl.
• RS: Right side.
• St(s): Stitch(es).
• WS: Wrong side.

Directions for a Sweet Tomato Heel

Setup: K3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] and transfer these worked stitches to the second needle where your heel stitches are going to be worked. Work across the next 14 [14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22, 24, 26] stitches as established. Transfer remaining 3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] stitches to the second needle.

You’ll now have 14 [14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22, 24, 26] stitches on the first needle for your instep and 26 [30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50] stitches on the second needle for the heel. You’ll be ready to start the wedge of the heel.

Wedge
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to last 3 sts, turn your work.
Row 3: Knit to last 3 sts before gap, turn your work.
Row 4: Purl to last 3 sts before gap, turn your work.

Repeat Rows 3-4 1 [2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] more times. You’ll have 8 [6, 8, 4, 8, 4, 6, 4, 6, 8] stitches between the gaps.

Next Round: Knit to gap. Lift the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch onto the needle, then work both stitches together with the lifted stitch. *Knit the next stitch, then left the right leg of the next stitch onto the needle, then work both stitches together with the lifted stitch; repeat from * until you’ve returned to your BOR. Then, work across instep as established, then close up the gaps in the same manner as the left side of the heel before working to your BOR.

Work Wedge and Next Round directions once more, then work the wedge one final time (having worked 3 wedges total). Work across the instep as established, then to the BOR resolving all the remaining wraps.

Work across the instep as established, knit the next 3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] stitches and transfer them back to them back to the first needle to become part of the instep again. Knit to the last 3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] stitches of the second needle, then slip the last 3 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] stitches to the first needle for the instep again. You’ll be back to your original BOR and you’ll have 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] stitches on each needle again.

Congratulations! You’ve worked the Sweet Tomato Heel and are now ready to work the foot or leg of your sock per your pattern directions! If you enjoy this heel shape, you may also enjoy a Peasant Heel or Afterthought Heel. 

Happy knitting! ♥