Back to Basics: Socks – Cuff-Down Heel Flap & Gusset

Have you ever wanted to try knitting socks but felt a little intimidated? You’re not alone! Socks can seem like a big challenge, especially for beginners, but with the right guidance, you’ll find that they’re actually a fun and rewarding project. If you’re ready to take the plunge into sock knitting, Back to Basics: Socks is the perfect pattern to help you get started with confidence.

This beginner-friendly design is specifically created to guide you step-by-step through the sock knitting process, starting with a simple cuff-down approach. Cuff-down socks are a great way to begin because they allow you to easily adjust the length as you go, ensuring a perfect fit for your feet. Plus, with this pattern, you’ll be introduced to the classic heel flap and gusset technique, which is an essential skill every sock knitter should master.

Knitting socks isn’t just about making something functional; it’s about the satisfaction of creating something cosy and wearable. There’s a special joy in wearing socks you’ve knitted yourself, and the process of making them can be incredibly meditative. Plus, once you’ve mastered this pattern, you’ll be able to create socks in any colour or style you want—perfect for gifts, personal use, or simply expressing your creative side.

So, if you’re ready to dare to knit your first pair of socks, “Back to Basics: Socks” is here to help you take that exciting first step. With this pattern, you’ll not only learn how to knit a basic cuff-down sock but also gain the confidence to tackle more advanced designs in the future. Let’s make socks fun, accessible, and something you can proudly wear every day!

Are you ready to start your sock-knitting adventure? Grab your needles, choose your yarn, and let’s get knitting!

Pattern Notes for Back to Basics: Socks

Worked in the round from the cuff-down, this versatile sock pattern offers a seamless knitting experience. While the pattern comes with instructions for a heel flap and gusset, it’s adaptable to your personal preferences and unique feet. 

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your handcrafted socks. This pattern truly embraces size diversity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

I designed the sock pattern for the magic loop knitting method in mind. However, you can also work on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead if you prefer (just use extra markers to denote the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

Create a project page for your project here on Ravelry!

I can’t wait to see your Back to Basics: Socks come to life! Share your WIPs and FOs on social media using #rhyFlowerBlog and #BackToBasics—let’s celebrate your creativity together!

Tips & Tricks

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

Pattern Support for Back to Basics: Socks

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/

Skill Level

Beginner

Size Information

1 [2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] — larger sizes are in bold throughout the pattern to help differentiate the multiple sizes.

Finished Measurements

(Measured around the ball of the foot)

6 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28] cm circumference — choose a size that will give you 1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm of negative ease. The finished measurements provided are actual measurements and do not factor in your negative ease.

Notions

Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers (1)

Suggested Needles

US1 (2.25 mm) 40” / 100 cm circular needles, or the size required to get gauge

Yarn Requirements

200-500 yd / 183-458 m of fingering weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)

Suggested Yarn

Turtlepurl Yarns – Striped Turtle Toes
75% SW Merino 25% Nylon
450 yd (411 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Bruised
https://turtlepurl.com/

Gauge

32 stitches by 40 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.

Abbreviations used in Back to Basics: Socks

*: Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

“: Inch(es).

BOR: Beginning of round.

Cm: Centimetre(s).

Dec: Decrease.

G: Gram(s).

Inc: Increase.

K: Knit.

K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

M: Metre(s).

Mm: Millimetres(s).

Oz: Ounce(s).

P: Purl.

P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

Rep: Repeat.

RS: Right side.

Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

St(s): Stitch(es).

W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.

WS: Wrong side.

Yd: Yard(s).

Directions for Back to Basics: Socks

Using an Old Norwegian Cast-on, cast on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches and divide evenly between the two needles. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to denote the BOR. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the back of the leg.

Round 1: *K2, p2; rep from * across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your cuff measures 1.5” / 4 cm or your desired cuff length. 

Leg

Round 1: Knit across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your leg measures 2.5 [2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5]” / 6.5 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 10, 11, 11.5] cm less than your desired leg length, measured from the cast-on edge.

Heel Flap

Turn your work to face the WS. Work the heel flap flat, using the next 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches. 

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to the last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.

Continue working Rows 1-2 another 11 [12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21] times.

Heel Turn

Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p15 [16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k7 [7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13]. Turn your work. 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] sts unworked.

Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 3-4 another 7 [8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14] times. You’ll have worked all the stitches on each side and have 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] stitches remaining on the needle. Do not turn your work.

Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round. 58 [62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90, 94, 100, 104] sts

Gusset

Resume working in the round again and work the gusset:

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec on second needle)

Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches.

Foot

Continue working in the round as established, using your foot directions, until your foot measures 0.75 [1, 1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75]” / 2 [2.5, 2.5, 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 7] cm less than your desired length, measured from the deepest part of the heel.

Round 1: Knit across round.

Toe

Round 1: *K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more.  (4 sts dec; 2 sts dec on each needle)

Round 2: Knit across round.

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 40 stitches (20 stitches on each needle), then work Round 1 three more times; you’ll have 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle). Cut yarn, leaving an 8” / 21 cm tail, and graft your toe closed.

Finishing your Back to Basics: Socks

Weave in all your ends and soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. Block your socks with sock blockers or lay them flat to dry. Let air dry completely. Happy Knitting!