Heel Flap & Gusset – Toe-Up

Welcome to the fascinating world of toe-up sock knitting, where the journey begins at the very tips of your toes! In this innovative and versatile technique, we delve into the art of crafting a heel flap and gusset. The toe-up heel flap and gusset construction offers knitters a seamless and customisable approach to achieving the perfect fit for their socks. This method allows for precise control over the heel shaping and ensures that the socks hug the foot in all the right places, providing both comfort and durability.

As we embark on this creative adventure, we will explore the intricacies of shaping the heel with a sturdy flap and a gusset. The heel flap is knitted directly onto the foot, working in rows to create a strong, structured heel that supports and cushions the foot. After the flap is complete, the gusset is picked up along the sides, adding a snug and comfortable fit while providing room for the natural arch of your foot. This construction allows the sock to seamlessly conform to your foot’s unique shape.

One of the major benefits of the toe-up heel flap and gusset method is its flexibility. You can easily adjust the length of the foot, the depth of the heel, or the size of the gusset, ensuring that your socks are perfectly tailored to your preferences. Whether you’re working with a more complex stitch pattern or keeping it simple with a classic design, the heel flap and gusset technique can be adapted to suit any style.

So grab your favourite yarn, needles, and a sense of wonder as we unravel the magic of toe-up heel flap and gusset socks! This method provides a durable, comfortable fit and opens the door to countless creative possibilities for your next sock project.

These directions are specific to a toe-up sock. If you’re currently working a cuff-down sock and want to work a heel flap and gusset, you’ll want these directions instead. 

Pattern Notes

These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. We can work them using DPNs or mini-circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. The directions assume you’ve already worked the foot of your sock approximately 4 [4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.5, 5.75, 6, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5]” / 10 [11.5, 12, 12.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 16.5, 17, 18, 19] cm less than your desired length.

These measurements are based on a rhyFlower Knits sock pattern gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks. 

Abbreviations for a Heel Flap and Gusset

Cm: Centimetre(s).

Dec: Decrease.

Inc: Increase.

K: Knit.

M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)

M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)

P: Purl.

P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec)

Rep: Repeat.

RS: Right side.

Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec)

St (Sts): Stitch(es).

W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.

WS: Wrong side.

Directions for a Heel Flap and Gusset

GUSSET

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc on second needle)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round. 

Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.

HEEL TURN

Continue across the instep as established. You will work flat for your heel turn, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65], w&t. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked
Row 2 (WS): P22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42], w&t. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked
Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.
Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Continue working Rows 3-4 another 6 [7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] times. You’ll have 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] centre stitches and 8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] wrapped stitches on each side.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across centre sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.

Ribbed Heel Flap (shown in the sample photos)

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 1-2 until you have completed working all the heel flap stitches with your gusset stitches, which will bring you back to your original stitch count of 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on the second needle. Work as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

Eye of Partridge Heel Flap

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 3: Sl2, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last 2 sts before the gap, k1, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec)
Row 4: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec)

Continue working Rows 1-4 until you have completed working all the heel flap stitches with your gusset stitches, which will bring you back to your original stitch count of 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on the second needle. Work as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

Congratulations! You’ve worked the heel flap and gusset and are now ready to work the leg of your sock per your pattern directions!

The yarn we used in our sample heel is from the Fibre Goddess!

Happy knitting! ♥