Heel Flap & Gusset (Toe-Up Version)

Measurements

The measurements are based on a gauge of 8 stitches by 10 rounds in stockinette = 1″ / 2.5 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will result in a size difference for your finished socks.

Notes

These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. They can be worked using DPN’s or 9″ circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end.

The directions assume you’ve already worked the leg approximately 4 [4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5]” / 10 [11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 14, 15, 15, 16.5, 18, 18, 19] cm less than your desired length.

Additional Information

You’ll find general foot information here.


Glossary

  • Inc: Increased.
  • K: Knit.
  • K-tbl: Knit through the back loop.
  • M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc.)
  • M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc.)
  • P: Purl
  • P-tbl: Purl through the back loop.
  • P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
  • Rep: Repeat.
  • RS: Right side.
  • Sl: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
  • Ssk: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
  • St(s): Stitch(es)
  • W&T: Wrap and turn.
  • WS: Wrong side.

Gusset

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1L, K1. (2 sts inc.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Repeat rounds 1-2 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.

Heel Turn

Continue across the instep established. You will be working flat for your heel turn, working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65], w&t.
Row 2 (WS): P22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42], w&t.
Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.
Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.

Repeat rows 3-4 until you have 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] center stitches between your wrapped stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across center sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. When all wrapped stitches have been resolved, turn your work.

Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. When all wrapped stitches have been resolved, turn your work.

Heel Flap

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Repeat rows 1-2 until all heel flap stitches have been worked with your gusset stitches, returning you to your original 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on the second needle. Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

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