Welcome to the fascinating world of toe-up sock knitting, where the journey begins at the very tips of your toes! In this innovative and versatile technique, we delve into the art of crafting a heel flap and gusset. Toe-up heel flap and gusset construction offer knitters a seamless and customisable approach to achieving the perfect fit for their socks. As we embark on this creative adventure, we will explore the intricacies of shaping the heel with a sturdy flap and a gusset, ensuring unparalleled comfort and durability. So grab your favourite yarn, needles, and a sense of wonder as we unravel the magic of toe-up heel flap and gusset socks!
These directions are for magic loop based on 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches, having the stitches divided evenly between the two needles. We can work them using DPNs or mini-circulars, being mindful of where your instep and back stitches begin and end. The directions assume you’ve already worked the foot of your sock approximately 4.25 [4.5, 4.75, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5]” / 11 [11.5, 12, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 18.5, 19] cm less than your desired length. These measurements are based on a rhyFlower Knits sock pattern gauge of 32 stitches by 40 rounds in the stockinette = 4″ / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.
ABBREVIATIONS
Cm: Centimetre(s).
Dec: Decrease.
Inc: Increase.
K: Knit.
M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc.)
M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle. Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc.)
P: Purl.
P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches simultaneously and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
Rep: Repeat.
RS: Right side.
Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
St (Sts): Stitch(es).
W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.
WS: Wrong side.
DIRECTIONS
GUSSET
Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.
Continue working Rounds 1-2 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.
HEEL TURN
Continue across the instep as established. You will work flat for your heel turn, only working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65], w&t. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked.
Row 2 (WS): P22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42], w&t. 12 [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] sts unworked.
Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.
Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.
Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] centre stitches between your wrapped stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across centre sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. After resolving all the wrapped stitches, turn your work.
HEEL FLAP
You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before the gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before the gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Continue working Rows 1-2 until you have completed working all the heel flap stitches with your gusset stitches, which will bring you back to your original stitch count of 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] stitches on the second needle. Work as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.