Knitting Pattern: Unity (toe-up)

Knitting friends, have you ever longed to create something that brings both warmth and style to your loved ones? Socks are one of the most satisfying knitting projects—practical, portable, and packed with potential for creative expression. And today, I want to introduce you to a pattern that embodies all of that and more: Unity.

This isn’t just another sock pattern—Unity is a design that weaves together comfort, elegance, and a touch of intricate charm. Featuring a stunning cable panel that flows effortlessly along the outer edge of each sock, this pattern adds a touch of sophistication while remaining delightfully cosy. Whether you’re knitting for yourself, your partner, or even the whole family, Unity is the perfect blend of function and beauty.

The cold weather settles in, and you gather with your family, each of you donning a pair of beautifully hand-knit Unity socks. There’s a sense of connection, a shared warmth, and the satisfaction of knowing that your stitches have created something truly special. Knitting has a way of bringing people together, and Unity is the perfect reminder of that.

So, if you’re looking for your next sock-knitting adventure, this pattern is definitely one to add to your list. Stay tuned for more details on where to find it and how you can bring Unity to your needles!

Pattern Notes for Unity

Worked in the round from the toe-up, this versatile sock pattern offers a seamless knitting experience. While the pattern comes with instructions for a short row heel, it’s adaptable to your personal preferences and unique feet. We’ve even included links to alternative heel techniques, so you can choose the one that brings you the most joy in your knitting journey and fits your feet.

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your handcrafted socks. This pattern truly embraces size diversity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

I designed the sock pattern for the magic loop knitting method in mind. However, you can also work on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead if you prefer (just use extra markers to denote the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

Create a project page for your project here on Ravelry!

I can’t wait to see your Unity Socks come to life! Share your WIPs and FOs on social media using #rhyFlowerBlog and #UnitySocks—let’s celebrate your creativity together! 

Tips & Tricks

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

Pattern Support for Unity

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size Information

1 [2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] — larger sizes are in bold throughout the pattern to help differentiate the multiple sizes.

Finished Measurements

(Measured around the ball of the foot)

6 [6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28] cm circumference — choose a size that will give you 1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm of negative ease. The finished measurements provided are actual measurements and do not factor in your negative ease.

Notions

Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, cable needle, stitch markers (3)

Suggested Needles

US1 (2.25 mm) 40” / 100 cm circular needles, or the size required to obtain gauge

Yarn Requirements

MC: 200-500 yd / 183-458 m of fingering weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)
CC: 44 [50, 56, 62, 68, 75, 81, 88, 95, 103, 110] yd / 40 [46, 51, 57, 62, 69, 74, 80, 87, 94, 101] m of fingering weight yarn

Suggested Yarn

Turtlepurl Yarns – Striped Turtle Toes
75% SW Merino 25% Nylon
450 yd (411 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Joy
https://turtlepurl.com/

Gauge

32 stitches by 40 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will cause a size difference for your finished socks.

Abbreviations used in Unity

*: Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

1/2 LPT: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at front of work, p2, then k-tbl from cable needle.

1/2 RPT: Slip next 2 stitches to the cable needle and place at the back of the work, k1-tbl, then p2 from the cable needle.

2/1 LC: Slip the next 2 stitches to the cable needle and place it at the front of work, k1, then k2 from the cable needle.

2/1 RC: Slip the next stitch to the cable needle and place it at the back of the work, k2, then k1 from the cable needle.

BOR: Beginning of round.

CC: Contrast colour.

Cm: Centimetre(s).

Dec: Decrease.

Inc: Increase.

K1-tbl: Knit through the back loop.

K: Knit.

M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc)

M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc)

M: Metres.

MC: Main colour.

Mm: Millimetre.

Oz: Ounce(s).

P: Purl.

Pm: Place marker.

Rep: Repeat.

RS: Right side.

Sm: Slip marker.
St(s): Stitch(es).

W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.

WS: Wrong side.

Yd: Yard(s).

Directions for Unity

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on and your CC, cast on 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle). Knit across 1 round, working through the back loop on your second needle. Place a stitch marker to denote the BOR.

Rounds 1-2: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (36 sts; 18 sts on each needle)

Round 3: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc; 2 sts  inc on each needle)

Round 4: Knit across round. 

Continue working Rounds 3-4 until you have 48 [52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88] stitches. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the sole of your sock. Cut CC and join MC. 

Foot

Right foot setup: K6 [8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26], pm, p1, k3, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k3, p1, pm, knit to end of round.

Left foot setup: K1, pm, p1, k3, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k3, p1, pm, knit to end of round.

Round 1: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Rounds 2-4: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 5: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 6: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Rounds 7-8: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 9: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 10: Repeat Round 7.

Round 11: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 12: Repeat Round 2.

Round 13: Repeat Round 5.

Rounds 14-15: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 16: Repeat Round 6.

Round 17: Repeat Round 9.

Rounds 18-20: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Continue working Rounds 1-20 until your foot measures 1.5 [1.75, 2, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 2.75, 3]” / 4 [4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5] cm less than your desired foot length, measured from the cast-on edge.

Short Row Heel

Continue across the instep as established, then drop MC and join CC. You’ll continue working with your CC from here. You will work inward toward the centre of your heel, working the stitches on your second needle flat using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K23 [25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43], w&t next st.

Row 2 (WS): P22 [24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42], w&t next st.

Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t next st.

Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have ‌8 [9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] wrapped stitches on each side of your heel; 8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14] unwrapped stitches in the centre. Now, begin working back towards the outside stitches of the heel. You will wrap the stitch after the one you work together with its wrap, so now this stitch has two wraps on it.

Row 1 (RS): Knit to wrapped st, knit both wrap and the st together, w&t next st.

Row 2 (WS): Purl to wrapped st, purl both wrap and the st together, w&t next st.

Row 3: Knit to wrapped st, knit both wraps and the st together, w&t next st. 

Row 4: Purl to wrapped st, purl both wraps and the st together, w&t next st. 

Continue working Rows 3-4 until you have 1 wrapped stitch remaining on each end. Cut CC and continue working heel with MC. Facing the RS, knit to the last stitch of the heel and, again, work the wraps and the stitch together. You’re now back at your original beginning of the round and are prepared to resume working in the round again. 

Next Round: Continue working across the instep as established, then knit the remaining wrapped stitch and the next stitch together, and knit to the end of the round. We have now resolved all wrapped stitches.

Leg

Resume working in the round, as established, using your leg directions, until your leg measures your desired length before the cuff, measured from the deepest part of the heel.

Round 1: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Rounds 2-4: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 5: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 6: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Rounds 7-8: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 9: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, 2/1 LC, k1-tbl, 2/1 RC, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 10: Repeat Round 7.

Round 11: Knit to marker, sm, p1, 1/2 LPT, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, 1/2 RPT, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 12: Repeat Round 2.

Round 13: Repeat Round 5.

Rounds 14-15: Knit to marker, sm, p3, k1-tbl, p1, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p1, k1-tbl, p3, sm, knit to end of round.

Round 16: Repeat Round 6.

Round 17: Repeat Round 9.

Rounds 18-20: Knit to marker, sm, p1, k1-tbl, p3, k3, k1-tbl, k3, p3, k1-tbl, p1, sm, knit to end of round.

Cuff

Cut MC and join CC. If desired, you can maintain the established cable panel through the cuff.

Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across round.

Continue working Round 1 until your cuff measures 2” / 5 cm or your desired cuff length. Bind off using a Stretchy Bind-off, remember you’ll want your bind-off to be stretchy enough to get your sock on and off comfortably.

Finishing your Unity Socks

Weave in all your ends, then soak your socks in water for 20 minutes using a gentle soap or wool wash. Block your socks with sock blockers or lay them flat to dry. Allow the socks to fully air dry.

Now, put on your new hand-knit socks and dance like nobody is watching!