Knitting Technique: Double Knitting

Double knitting is an impressive and versatile technique that allows you to create a fabric with two layers simultaneously. This method is perfect for projects requiring extra warmth, reversible designs, or intricate colourwork. Whether you’re a novice intrigued by the possibilities of double knitting or an experienced knitter seeking to expand your skills, this guide will delve deep into the essentials and beyond.

What is Double Knitting?

Double knitting involves working with two yarns and needles simultaneously to create a fabric that is fully reversible, with each side showing a different colour or pattern. Unlike fair isle or intarsia, where the wrong side of the work shows floats of unused yarn, double knitting creates a dense, double-layered fabric with no floats, making it ideal for items like scarves, blankets, and potholders.

Why Choose Double Knitting?

Double knitting offers several unique advantages:

• Reversible Fabrics: Both sides of the fabric are finished, making it perfect for scarves, shawls, and blankets where both sides may be visible.
• Extra Warmth: The double layer of fabric provides additional insulation, making it ideal for cold-weather garments and accessories.
• Intricate Colourwork: You can create complex patterns without worrying about the “wrong side” showing messy floats.
• Durability: The thickness of the double-knitted fabric tends to be more durable and resistant to wear and tear.

Getting Started: Materials Needed

Before you dive into double knitting, gather the following materials:

1. Yarn: Select two contrasting colours. Ensure that both yarns are of the same weight and fibre content to achieve a uniform fabric. Wool is an excellent choice because of its elasticity and ability to hold shape.
2. Needles: Use needles appropriate for your chosen yarn that allow you to achieve the same gauge as the designer in their pattern. Circular needles are often preferred because they can hold more stitches and disperse the weight of the project, which is particularly useful in double knitting.
3. Stitch Markers: These will help you keep track of your pattern, especially when working with complex designs.
4. Pattern: If you’re new to double knitting, start with a pattern specifically designed for this technique. As you gain confidence, you can experiment with converting single-layer patterns into double-knitted ones.

Basic Techniques

Double knitting can seem daunting at first, but understanding the fundamental techniques will set you on the path to success.

Cast On:

• Long Tail Cast-on: This method works well for double knitting. Hold both yarns together and cast on stitches as you would normally, treating the two yarns as one. This creates a firm, elastic edge.
• Tubular Cast-on: For a more polished edge, especially for garments, you might want to try a Tubular Cast-on. This technique creates a seamless edge that flows directly into the double-knitted fabric.

Knitting:

• Set-Up Row: The set-up row is crucial in double knitting. It involves alternating between knit and purl stitches across the row. However, unlike regular knitting, you will knit with one colour and purl with the other. For instance, if you’re working with a blue and a white yarn, you might knit the first stitch with blue and purl the next with white, repeating this across the row.
• Double Knit Stitch: Once the set-up row is complete, the double knitting pattern begins. For each pair of stitches, you knit the first stitch with the front colour (e.g., blue) and slip the back colour (e.g., white) with the yarn held in front, then purl the second stitch with the back colour and slip the front colour with the yarn held in the back. This process creates the interlocked, double-layer fabric.

Purling:

• Set-Up Row: In double knitting, purling is as common as knitting. During the set-up row, when you alternate between knit and purl stitches, you are laying the foundation for the double-knit fabric.
• Double Purl Stitch: To double purl, you purl the stitch with the appropriate colour and slip the corresponding stitch with the other colour. For example, if you are purling with the white yarn, you would slip the blue stitch purlwise with the yarn in front.

Changing Colours:

• At the Edge: When you reach the end of a row and need to change colours, carry both yarns up the side to maintain the integrity of the double-knit fabric. This ensures that your edges are clean and that both layers remain connected.
• Within the Row: Introducing new colours within the row can add complexity to your design. Drop the old yarn, pick up the new yarn, and continue knitting. This technique allows you to create multi-coloured patterns that appear as a mirror image on the reverse side of your fabric.

Advanced Techniques

As you become more comfortable with double knitting, you may want to explore more advanced techniques:

• Two-Colour Reversible Patterns: Once you’re confident with basic double knitting, try patterns where each side has a different colour scheme or design. For instance, you can create a checkerboard pattern with one colour dominant on one side and the other colour dominant on the reverse. This technique opens up endless design possibilities.
• Increases and Decreases: Shaping your double-knitted fabric requires some finesse. To increase stitches, you can use paired increases like knitting into the front and back of a stitch (KFB) while maintaining the colour pattern. Decreasing involves pairing decreases, such as k2tog (knit two together) with its purl counterpart, ensuring that the double-layer structure is preserved.
• Cables and Texture: Incorporating cables into double knitting adds a new layer of complexity and texture to your projects. You’ll need to work the cables in both layers, ensuring that the twist occurs on both sides. This technique results in a beautifully textured fabric that’s double-sided.
• Tubular Bind-off: For a seamless finish, consider using a Tubular Bind-off. This technique mirrors the tubular cast-on and creates a rounded, elastic edge that complements the double-knit fabric.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Even seasoned knitters can encounter challenges with double knitting. Here are some common pitfalls and tips to overcome them:

• Uneven Tension: Maintaining even tension across both layers is crucial for a smooth, professional finish. Practice holding the yarns consistently and try not to pull one colour tighter than the other. If your fabric puckers, your tension may be too tight; if it feels loose or sloppy, it may be too loose.
• Confusing the Yarn Colours: It’s easy to get your yarns mixed up, especially in complex patterns. Use stitch markers to help you keep track of your place in the pattern, and regularly check your work to ensure the colours are aligning correctly.
• Twisted Edges: If the edges of your fabric twist or curl, you may not be carrying the yarns up the side correctly. Practice keeping your edges clean by carrying both yarns up evenly and not pulling too tightly.

Tips for Success

• Start Small: Begin with a small project like a coaster or a simple scarf to practice the technique before moving on to more complex patterns.
• Use a Chart: For intricate patterns, use a colour-coded chart to keep track of the stitches. This can make it easier to follow along and visualise the design.
• Practice, Practice, Practice: Like any knitting technique, double knitting improves with practice. Don’t be discouraged if your first few attempts aren’t perfect. The more you work with the technique, the more natural it will feel.
• Blocking: Once you’ve completed your project, blocking is essential. Blocking helps even out stitches, set the pattern, and enhance the reversible nature of double knitting. Use pins to gently stretch the fabric into shape, and steam or wet block it depending on your yarn type.

Conclusion

Double knitting is a rewarding technique that opens up a world of possibilities for creating beautiful, functional, and warm fabrics. Whether you’re looking to make a stunning reversible scarf, a cosy blanket, or a unique garment, double knitting offers the versatility and creativity to bring your ideas to life. With practice, patience, and a bit of experimentation, you’ll soon master this technique and be ready to tackle more complex projects.

Start with the basics, explore advanced techniques, and, most importantly, enjoy the process. Double knitting is not just a technique—it’s an art form that allows you to express your creativity in ways that single-layer knitting cannot. Happy knitting, and may your double knitting projects be as beautiful and enjoyable as the journey to mastering them!

Happy knitting!