Back to Basics: Socks (DK) – Heel Flap & Gusset (cuff-down)

Back to Basics: Socks – For every newbie out there who dares to take up the challenge, this beginner-friendly sock pattern has got you covered.

While the pattern comes with instructions for a heel flap and gusset, it’s designed to be adaptable to your personal preferences and unique feet. We’ve even included links to alternative heel techniques, so you can choose the one that brings you the most joy in your knitting journey and fits your feet.

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your handcrafted socks. This pattern truly embraces size diversity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

The pattern is written for the magic loop method for knitting socks; however, the design could be worked on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead should you prefer (ensure you denote your instep stitches with extra markers – so you don’t miss the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

 

TIPS & TRICKS

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

 

PATTERN SUPPORT

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/




 

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

 

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

(Measured around the ball of the foot)
6 [6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.75, 11.25]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27, 28.5] cm circumference — choose a size that will give you 1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm of negative ease. The finished measurements do not factor in negative ease, these are the actual measurements for the finished item. 

 

NOTIONS

Tapestry needle, stitch markers (1)

 

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

US3 (3.25 mm) 40” (100 cm) circular needles, or the size required to obtain gauge

 

YARN REQUIREMENTS

MC: 100-245 yds / 91-224 m of fingering weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)
CC: 35 [40, 46, 52, 58, 65, 72, 79, 87, 94] yds / 32 [37, 42, 48, 53, 59, 66, 72, 80, 86] m of fingering weight yarn

 

SUGGESTED YARN

Turtlepurl Yarns – DK Striped Turtle Toes
75% Superwash Merino 25% Nylon
245 yds (224 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Diamond Dungarees
https://turtlepurl.com/

 

GAUGE

27 stitches by 36 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will result in a size difference for your finished socks.




 

ABBREVIATIONS

CC: Contrast colour.
Dec: Decrease.
Inc: Increase.
K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
K: Knit.
M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc.)
M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc.)
MC: Main colour.
P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
P: Purl.
Rep: Repeat.
RS: Right side.
Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
St (Sts): Stitch(es).
W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.
WS: Wrong side.

 

 



DIRECTIONS

Using an Old Norwegian Cast-on and your CC, cast on 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches and divide evenly between the two needles. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for the back of the leg.

Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across round.

 Work Round 1 until your cuff measures 2” / 5 cm or your desired cuff length. Cut CC and join MC.

 

LEG

Round 1: Knit across round.

Repeat Round 1 until your leg measures 2 [2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4]” / 5 [5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10] cm less than your desired leg length.

 

HEEL FLAP

Turn your work to face the WS. Drop MC and join CC, you’ll continue working with your CC from here. The heel is worked flat, and you’ll be working the next 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] stitches for your heel flap as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to end of your heel flap stitches. Turn your work.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st of your heel flap, k1. Turn your work.

Repeat Rows 1-2 another 8 [9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17] times.

 



HEEL TURN

Continuing to work flat, work the heel flap stitches using short rows as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p12 [14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24]. Turn your work. 7 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13] sts unworked.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k5 [7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11]. Turn your work. 7 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13] sts unworked.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 4: Sl1, knit to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked on each side.  Do not turn your work.

Pick up and knit one stitch in each of the 9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap to form a gusset. To prevent a gap, pick up an extra stitch just before knitting across the instep. Cut CC and continue working with MC. Work across the instep as established. Again, pick up an extra stitch before picking up your  9 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18] edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and then knit to the end of the round.

 

GUSSET

While working in the round, proceed to work the gusset as follows:

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you’ve returned to your original 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches.

 



FOOT

Continue working in the round as established, using your foot directions, until your foot measures 1 [1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3]” / 2.5 [3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5] cm less than your desired length.

Round 1: Knit across round.

 

TOE

Cut MC and join CC.
Round 1: *K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more.  (4 sts dec.)
Round 2: Knit across round.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have 28 stitches (14 stitches on each needle). Repeat Round 1 three more times; you’ll have 16 stitches (8 stitches on each needle). Cut yarn, leaving an 8” / 21 cm tail, and Kitchener Stitch your toe closed.

 

FINISHING

Weave in all your ends and soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. Block your socks with sock blockers or lay them flat to dry. Let air dry completely. Happy Knitting!

 





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