Back to Basics: Socks (DK) – Heel Flap & Gusset (toe-up)

Back to Basics: Socks – For every newbie out there who dares to take up the challenge, this beginner-friendly sock pattern has got you covered.

While the pattern comes with instructions for a heel flap and gusset, it’s designed to be adaptable to your personal preferences and unique feet. We’ve even included links to alternative heel techniques, so you can choose the one that brings you the most joy in your knitting journey and fits your feet.

With multiple sizes thoughtfully incorporated, you can easily achieve the perfect fit for yourself or for the lucky recipient of your handcrafted socks. This pattern truly embraces size diversity, making it a wonderful option for a wide range of individuals.

The pattern is written for the magic loop method for knitting socks; however, the design could be worked on double-pointed needles or mini-circulars instead should you prefer (ensure you denote your instep stitches with extra markers – so you don’t miss the placement of the heel or toe shaping).

 

TIPS & TRICKS

For helpful resources on sock knitting, please visit: https://rhyflowerknits.com/socks/

 

PATTERN SUPPORT

Please see our Pattern Support page regarding pattern support for our freebie patterns; https://rhyflowerknits.com/pattern-support/




 

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

 

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

(Measured around the ball of the foot)
6 [6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.75, 11.25]” / 15 [16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27, 28.5] cm circumference — choose a size that will give you 1-1.5” / 2.5-4 cm of negative ease. The finished measurements do not factor in negative ease, these are the actual measurements for the finished item. 

 

NOTIONS

Tapestry needle, stitch markers (1)

 

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

US3 (3.25 mm) 40” (100 cm) circular needles, or the size required to obtain gauge

 

YARN REQUIREMENTS

MC: 100-245 yds / 91-224 m of fingering weight yarn (depending on the length of your foot and leg)
CC: 35 [40, 46, 52, 58, 65, 72, 79, 87, 94] yds / 32 [37, 42, 48, 53, 59, 66, 72, 80, 86] m of fingering weight yarn

 

SUGGESTED YARN

Turtlepurl Yarns – DK Striped Turtle Toes
75% Superwash Merino 25% Nylon
245 yds (224 m) / 3.5 oz (100 g)
Colour: Diamond Dungarees
https://turtlepurl.com/

 

GAUGE

27 stitches by 36 rounds in stockinette = 4” / 10 cm, after blocking. Gauge is crucial in obtaining the correct fit. Changes in gauge will result in a size difference for your finished socks.




 

ABBREVIATIONS

CC: Contrast colour.
Dec: Decrease.
Inc: Increase.
K2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and knit the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
K: Knit.
M1L: From the front, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the back loop. (1 st inc.)
M1R: From the back, lift the horizontal strand between stitches with the left needle.  Knit through the front loop. (1 st inc.)
MC: Main colour.
P2tog: Insert the right needle into 2 stitches at the same time and purl the 2 stitches together. (1 st dec.)
P: Purl.
Rep: Repeat.
RS: Right side.
Sl1 wyif: With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Sl1: With the working yarn in the back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl, and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.
Ssk: Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise. Knit the slipped stitches together through the back loops. (1 st dec.)
St (Sts): Stitch(es).
W&T: Wrap the stitch with the working yarn and turn the work.
WS: Wrong side.




 

DIRECTIONS

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on and your CC, cast on 16 stitches (8 stitches on each needle). Knit across 1 round, working through the back loop on your second needle. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Rounds 1-2: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc.)
Round 3: *K1, M1R, knit to the last st on the needle, M1L, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts inc.)
Round 4: Knit across round.  

Repeat Rounds 3-4 until you have 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches. The first half of your stitches will be for your instep and the second half for your sole. Cut CC and join MC. 

 

FOOT

Round 1: Knit across round.

Repeat Round 1 until your foot measures 3.75 [4, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.75, 7]” / 9.5 [10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 15.5, 16.5, 18] cm less than your desired foot length.

 

GUSSET

Round 1: Work across the instep as established, k1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1. (2 sts inc.)
Round 2: Work across the instep as established, knit to end of round.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until you have 40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] stitches on your second needle for the gusset.




 

HEEL TURN

Continue across the instep as established. Drop MC and join CC, you’ll continue working with your CC from here. You will be working flat for your heel turn, working the stitches on your second needle using short rows.

Row 1 (RS): K29 [32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56], w&t. 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts unworked
Row 2 (WS): P18 [20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36], w&t. 10 [11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts unworked
Row 3: Knit to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.
Row 4: Purl to last st before the previous w&t, w&t.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until you have 6 [8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12] centre stitches between your wrapped stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Knit across centre sts, then the wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their sts as you come to them. When all wrapped stitches have been resolved, turn your work.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the beginning of wrapped sts, picking up the wraps and purling them with their sts as you come to them. When all wrapped stitches have been resolved, turn your work.




 

HEEL FLAP

You’ll begin working the heel flap and gusset stitches together as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, *k1, sl1; rep from * to last st before gap, ssk. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, purl to last st before gap, p2tog. Turn your work. (1 st dec.)

Repeat Rows 1-2 until all heel flap stitches have been worked with your gusset stitches, returning you to your original 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] stitches on the second needle. Cut CC and continue with MC as follows; Sl1, knit to end of round. You will now begin working the leg of your sock.

 

LEG

Resume working in the round, as established, using your leg directions, until your leg measures your desired leg length before the cuff. 

Round 1: Knit across round.




 

CUFF

Cut MC and join CC.

Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across round.

Work Round 1 until your cuff measures 2” / 5 cm or your desired cuff length. Bind off using a Stretchy Bind-off, remember you’ll want your bind-off to be stretchy enough to get your sock on and off comfortably.

 

FINISHING

Weave in all your ends and soak your socks in water for 20 minutes with a gentle soap or wool wash. Block your socks with sock blockers or lay them flat to dry. Let air dry completely. Happy Knitting!

 





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